Slightly over halfway
through the Basic Pastry program, we have moved from making elements of French
pastries (just the dough, just the cream, etc.) to assembling and decorating entire
things, start to finish. I recognize
many of the pastries’ names from the bakeries in Chambéry, and now my portfolio
is starting to look like I belong there!
Leçon
7
Lesson 7 was truly the
beginning of making entire large pastries, and paying specific attention to
each dish’s iconic French décor. It was
also the demo in which we finally got to use our puff pastry dough, something
we had been tweaking slowly in practicals the entire week before. In the demo, we learned different ways to use
puff pastry dough: Chaussons aux Pommes
(apple turnovers), Pithiviers (a large puff pastry filled with almond cream),
Palmiers (thin, crunchy puff pastries rolled in granulated sugar), Feuillantine
(thin, sweet puff pastries sandwiched with raspberry jam), Millefeuille
(Napoléon), Gallettes des Rois (the same as the Pithiviers, but with a
different design), and Bichons (puff pastry rolls filled with lemon cream). Quite the list!
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Chef's Bichons (left) and Palmiers (right) |
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Chef's Millefeuille |
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From bottom to top: Pithviers, Gallettes de Rois, Apple Turnovers, Feuillantine |
In the practical we
tried our hands at Pithiviers (still my favorite-tasting pastry so far) and
Apple Turnovers, with the option of filling any extra time with Pamiers. The
practical was light-hearted and it went well.
Though I consciously put as little filling as I could imagine into my
apple turnovers, it was still too much, causing them to open in the oven (a
problem that Chef Jocelyn blamed on me being American, with a smile, of course),
but my Pithiviers was fantastic and SO tasty.
Upon arriving back at the apartment, I ate a quarter of it before I
remembered that the cream is made solely of butter, sugar, and almond
powder.
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My Pithiviers and Apple Turnovers (which exploded a little) |
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The tops of my turnovers |
Piping
Workshop
On our schedules, we
had a mysterious workshop scheduled for a day we don’t usually have class. Most of us knew what that meant: it was our
promised piping time with the Chef! We
were correct: in the lab kitchen, Chef Jocelyn taught us the basics of
piping. Much of it was not new to me,
but it was good to learn the French version of rosettes and shell borders, and
it was a good opportunity to practice piping chocolate.
For a few hours we
piped lines, dots, balls, and shell borders with buttercream, and letters and
swirls with chocolate. We also prepared
for Lesson 9, in which we would have to pipe dough for a few different
pastries. The Chef was very pleased with
my work, and I got even more excited to try my piping skills on finished
pastries in the coming lessons.
Leçon
8
Our first official cake
demo had arrived! Although we learned and practiced
genoise (sponge cake) early in our studies, we never truly assembled a French
cake. In this demo, we watched the Chef
prepare three favorites: Gâteau Forêt
Noire (Black Forest Cake), Moka (vanilla genoise with coffee-flavored French
buttercream, toasted almond slivers, and chocolate-covered espresso beans), and
Mexicain (chocolate genoise with dark chocolate ganache and poured
fondant). The cakes were fabulous,
though the Mexicain is far too rich for my taste, and we were to recreate the
Black Forest in our practical the next day.
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Chef's Moka |
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Chef's Mexicain |
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Chef's Black Forest |
It was a great
practical. Everyone was excited to
finally assemble a cake, start to finish, and it was our first opportunity for
chocolate work. We made the genoise
first, which involves quite a bit of whipping, then prepared Chantilly cream
(more whipping) for filling and icing.
The Chef taught us how to make chocolate shavings for the side of the cake,
and we garnished our completed creations with very strong cherries soaked in
Kirsch. I was very happy with my
performance, and the Chef was so proud!
He complimented my piping skills, said my tastes and textures were spot
on, and that my presentation was fabulous.
Score!
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My Black Forest |
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My Black Forest |
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It was so tasty, we just kept a spoon next to it at all times! |
Leçon
9
Lesson 9 was Pâte à
Choux day! I had been looking forward to
this Basic Pastry lesson since I was in France because of one adorable little
pastry: Religieuses. It was so exciting
to finally be learning how to make them.
In the demo we learned
how to make the Pâte à Choux (also called “Choux Paste”…it doesn’t really have
a word in English). The Chef then showed
us how to use the dough to make four different light, fluffy pastries with filling:
Éclairs au Chocolate et au Café (chocolate and coffee éclairs), Religieuses au
Café (coffee Religieuses, little round cream puffs named after nuns), Cygnes (“Swans,”
literally), and Salambô (filled cream puffs dipped in light caramel). Upon tasting each pastry at the end of the
demo, I remembered why I was so excited for this lesson: Religieuses and
Éclairs (the same thing in different shapes) are so delicious I could hardly
contain myself.
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Chef's Chocolate Eclairs |
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Chef's Religieuses |
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Swans! |
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Salambo from the demo |
In the practical, we were to
make chocolate and coffee éclairs and coffee Religieuses. The Pâte à Choux is notoriously temperamental,
and definitely an exact science, but it went very well for me. Piping the dough was good, but the “heads”
for my Religieuses were a little large.
Crunched for time, the Chef informed us that many would not finish, a
fact that he expected. He said not to be
worried and just present what we could finish.
I hurried, quickly preparing fillings and dipping pastries in
fondant. I only truly finished two
éclairs and one Religieuse, to my disappointment. It turned out well, though. The critique was very positive, aside from my
nun’s head being a little large, and fewer finished pastries meant fewer
calories for Chad and I back home.
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My Religieuse, with a large head |
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My Eclairs |
Leçon
10
At the beginning of
Demo 10 we learned that there are five different categories of Petits Fours,
and we were about to experience the first:
Dry Petits Fours. The Chef demoed
five French bakery classics: Bâtons de Maréchaux (“Marshals’ Sticks,” crunchy little
almond-covered pastries, admittedly one of the Chef’s favorites), Madeleines
(the classic French mini-sponge cake shaped like a seashell), Cigarettes et
Tulipes (two different shapes of a very delicate little pastry), Palets de
Dames (the French take on a raisin cookie), and Tuiles aux Amandes (thin,
dainty almond pastries, curled into a half circle).
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Chef's Marshals' Sticks |
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Chef's Madeleines |
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Tuilles des Amandes |
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Cigarettes and Tulipes |
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Chef's Palets de Dames |
For the practical, we
were to recreate the Madeleines, Palets de Dames, and Cigarettes et Tulipes. Madeleines were simple, cute, and delicious,
just as I had imagined them to be. The
Palets de Dames were also as expected, but were surprisingly, addictively
delicious. I, along with many of my
classmates, was afraid of the Cigarettes, as they need to be tightly wrapped
around our knife sharpener while still very hot. Though I feared for my fingertips, they
turned out good for the first time, along with the Tulipes.
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My work in the practical: Tulipes and Cigarettes are over-baked, but other than that, everything turned out well! |
Leçon
11
Another cake day,
Lesson 11 focused on cakes layered with Daçoise, a crispy-outside-soft-inside
almond biscuit that is popular in many a French pastry. The Chef showed us three: Gâteau Russe aux
Noix (with coffee buttercream), Succès (with praline buttercream), and Progrès
(with chocolate buttercream) and each cake’s signature décor.
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Chef's Progres |
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Chef's Succes (sorry it's sideways: technical difficulties) |
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Chef's Russe |
Our practical was over
the Succès, another pastry I recognized from the windows of the Chambéry
bakeries. It was our first experience
actually making the French buttercream, and I was pretty nervous. Though the process had me a little uneasy, my
buttercream turned out very well, my Daçoise was fabulous, and the décor looked
nice.
In my critique with the
Chef, he didn’t have enough good things to say.
The buttercream was flavorful and the exact correct consistency. The Daçoises were piped nicely and were baked
just right. The décor was dainty and
cute, though my little sign could be a little larger. The best compliment of all, though, came when
he took a slice to taste. Usually he
takes a small slice, takes one bite, and tosses the rest in the trash (since he
has 12 students’ cakes to test). When it
came time to test mine he took his slice, took his bite, and when he turned to
toss the rest in the trash, he popped it into his mouth. He turned back and, when he saw that I
noticed, he just smiled with a little shrug as if to say, “What? It’s a good cake!”
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My Succes (Succes indeed!) |
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Evidently this is how hazelnuts grow in nature |
Leçon
12
Christmas came early
with Lesson 12! It was finally time for
us to tackle the Bûche de Noël: the ever-famous Christmas Log. I had seen lots of photos in my French
classes at ISU of Christmas Logs, and with the holiday approaching, I was so
ready for this lesson.
Chef Jocelyn made two
logs for us, one with chocolate buttercream and the other with vanilla, and
spent nearly an hour decorating them.
When he was finished, it was like Christmas exploded all over a fallen
tree.
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Hey, Christmas! |
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The Chef's log was full of all sorts of decoration! |
In the practical today
we knew we had to hurry to finish. The
cake itself wasn’t too difficult (though physically demanding), and the
buttercream was the same as last lesson.
But, though we were hurrying, most of us were still pretty crunched for
time toward the end, decorating our logs with snowmen and gifts and trees and
holly. I didn’t really have time to
finish, but I presented a good cake with which the Chef was mostly pleased.
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My Christmas Log! I didn't have time for my chocolate decoration to set or to finish the log's ends...but it looks pretty good! Chef Jocelyn wrote his in English, so I wrote mine in French to return the favor, and I wasn't the only one! |
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The marzipan decor was great fun |
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Leslie kindly took a photo of me and my first Christmas Log |