Saturday, January 19, 2013

Intermediate Pastry Begins!


Christmas Break had me rejuvenated and ready to work.  I was a little afraid of Intermediate, as Chef Eric Jauoan really intimidated me, and I had heard stories of him making students cry.  Nonetheless, I was so ready for Intermediate Pastry to begin.

We had orientation on a Friday (January 4th), so Chad and I were back in town and all settled on Thursday.  The orientation wasn’t really that…it was more of an introductory class.  So, we all showed up, in clean and pressed uniforms, to see what Intermediate was going to be like.

Chef Eric sporting a big smile at Graduation
Chef Eric gave us a three-hour class on chocolate, the star of Intermediate Pastry.  He taught us how to temper it (to re-organize the molecules in the chocolate so that when it sets up, it is shiny, strong, a little more resilient to temperature fluctuations, and has a nice “snap” when it is broken or bitten) and the temperatures required to temper every different kind of chocolate.  We watched a cute little video about tempering, and the Chef made a few example pieces for us.  He sent us home, excited for the months to come. 

I was wrong about the Chef.  He was only a little scary because he rarely talked, but rather stared at us without a smile.  I discovered that he rarely talks because he much prefers to speak in French.  He smiles often, and is actually a little crazy, going on frequent tangents and swearing in French during his demos.  He figured out early on which of us speak French, and in the practicals when we speak, he speaks to me in French and I reply in English.  It is nice that we have the opportunity to each speak our language of preference without inconveniencing the other.  We have been bonding over the fact that I am American, as he lived in the US for quite a few years, and he often jokes about how few Americans speak French.

Leçon 1

Our first Intermediate class consisted of tarts.  Three tarts: Tarte Fraise-Cassis (strawberry black currant tart), Tarte aux Poires au Flan Caramel (pear and caramel tart), and Tarte Passion-Framboise (raspberry passion fruit tart).  The tarts themselves weren’t very difficult, it was the requirement that was sure to catch us off balance.  We were required, for the first time, to execute and finish two tarts in our 2.5-hour practical (the strawberry and the passion fruit), rather than one.  The other difference:  we were using KitchenAids now!
Chef's Pear and Caramel Tart (with plated ones above)

Chef's Strawberry and Currant tart (bottom)
and Raspberry Passion Fruit tart (top)

Chef's Raspberry Passion Fruit Tart

The practical lived up to my expectation: it was busy!  I had two completely different tarts to do in the time I was used to doing half of that work.  Using the KitchenAid was different than what I was used to, and added another thing to have to think about while working on something else.  I tried to hurry, but still ended the class not quite finished.  My strawberry tart was short some berries on the top, and my passion fruit tart should have had some passion fruit seeds in the glaze.  I also baked my pies in the opposite tins.  What an initiation into Intermediate!
My Strawberry Tart (mission some berries, as you can see),
Passion Fruit tart, and a passion fruit in the middle, so the Chef
could show me what the inside of one looks like.


The "Raspberry" in Passion Fruit Raspberry Tart comes from
this disc of really tasty raspberry coulis in the center


Leçon 2

For Lesson 2, we were back in some familiar territory: Pâte à Choux.  We had some pretty extensive practice with the stuff in Basic, so this lesson was more of a piping class.  For this Demo, the Chef showed us the Petits-Fours versions of piped pâte à choux desserts: éclairs, salambo, swans, Paris-Brest, and religieuses.  We were to make mini-versions of all of these, small enough to eat in two bites or less.
Chef Eric's petits fours...more than we had to do
in practical

Most of the students were pretty frazzled from the first practical, seeing as only about half of us finished.  We strove to work even faster this time to be sure to complete our mission: six of each of the five types of pastries, for 30 petits fours total.  I worked clean and organized, and I finished right down to the wire, but finished completely.  So far, it felt like every day was exam day!
My Paris-Brest (left) and Swans (right).  The swans' heads
are a bit too large...but I can fix that next time

My Salambo (left), coffee eclairs (top right), and chocolate
religieuses (bottom right)

My Paris-Brest and Swans


My Religieuses were a little wobbly, but that seems  normal

Leçon 3                                                                                          

For Demo 3, Chef Eric showed us two versions of the “Ambassadeur” cake; the traditional version, and the Ambassadeur Exotique (Exotic Ambassador), which we were to recreate in the practical.  The traditional Ambassador was a white cake with cream, buttercream, and macerated fruits, and the Exotic Ambassador was a white cake with cream, fresh oranges and pineapples, and meringue.  The Chef made chocolate triangles with transfer sheets to show us how they are used, but expressed his dissent for them, and made it clear that this would be the only time we were to even think of transfer sheets in the class.
The Chef piping some crazy designs on his traditional Ambassadeur

Chef's Ambassadeur (Traditional)

Chef's Ambassadeur Exotique

The Practical went well for my Ambassadeur Exotique!   I finished in plenty of time, though my meringue was a little over-whipped with the machine.  When it came time to temper chocolate for my décor, I was successful, and the décor held up in the heat of the room.  Score!
My Ambassadeur Exotique


Chocolate Piping Workshop

Before going any further, the Chef gave us an entire three-hour workshop on chocolate piping.  At school, we pipe chocolate with little bags folded from parchment paper (which we fold ourselves as we need them), and we will be piping decorations on almost every cake from here on out.

Chef Eric showed us a few traditional borders and gave us a packet of suggestions, then set us free to practice piping on paper.  At the end of the class, we were to pipe designs onto three fake cakes: two flipped cake pans and a piece of parchment paper, cut to the size of an Opéra cake.
My piping

My piping

My piping

Leçon 4

We were warned about Lesson 4 during the chocolate piping workshop: it was the first time we would pipe a chocolate border onto a real cake: The Fraisier.  Fraisier is a delicious cake (my favorite so far)!  It is a vanilla cake with a very tasty cream (called “mousseline cream”) and fresh strawberries.  In the Demo, the Chef showed us three versions of this same cake: the Traditional (the cake layered with the cream and strawberries, iced with buttercream with fresh strawberries fanned on top), Modern (the cake with exposed cream and fresh strawberries around the outside, topped with marzipan and chocolate piping, a marzipan rose, and one fresh strawberry on top), and a plated version of the modern one. 
Chef's Fraisiers: Modern (bottom), Traditional (middle),
and Plated (top)




The inside of a slice of Chef Eric's Fraisier...so tasty!

In the practical, we were to make one full-sized modern Fraisier.  I hurried again, knowing that I would need to in order to let the cream set in the fridge, and everything went well.  I am proud of my first chocolate piping on the cake.  The Chef agreed that I did a nice job, but reminded me that I still have a lot of practicing to do.  He was, however, happy with my rose.
My Fraisier: the piping isn't too bad!

Fresh strawberries and cream on the side

Nice rose!

Leçon 5

Lesson 5 began our chocolate-intensive work in Intermediate, and it was the first time that our tempering was absolutely crucial.  Lesson 5 was the Chocolate Box.  Chef Eric showed us two boxes in the Demo, a teardrop-shaped and a round one.  They are larger than I expected (the round one is nine inches in diameter), and more fancy.  The chef piped and embellished his box, but he had enough time at the end of the class to show us a few other chocolate décors. 
Chef's Teardrop Box

Chef's round box, side piping

Chef's top.  The wooden design is inlaid into the piece, and the
other piping is on top

This was my favorite of the other chocolate garnishes he showed us

This practical was really fun.  I like working with chocolate, and I think I want my future to include showpieces (maybe working for a fancy hotel).  We were given free reign over the design of our box, and I was excited.  I decided to pipe a white chocolate design on the sides and the top, and finish the box with dark chocolate.  My tempering went well, but it took longer than I expected it to.  I finished on time, but only barely.  My box stayed at the school, along with all of the others.  On Wednesday, the Filled Bonbons lesson, I will make a bunch of beautiful chocolates, fill my box with them, and take it home.  I can’t wait!
Top of my box.  This white chocolate is inside of the dark
chocolate, making the piece smooth

My box: side piping

My chocolate box!  The silver cake board isn't part of it,
it is merely there to keep the top from melting onto the bottom
in the warm practical room.

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